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EMF | DANA 60 UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINT KIT

EMF | DANA 60 UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINT KIT

8607-80026-KIT/8607.1-80026.1-KIT
Pricing: $640.00

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Description

OVERSIZED or STANDARD

** SET OF 4 ** EMF Dana 60 Upper and Lower Ball Joints

FITS:

 - 2000-2005 Ford Excursion

- 1992-1997 Ford F350 Gas & Diesel

- 1999-2019 Ford F250 & F350 Superduty

- 1999-2004 Ford F450 Superduty

- 2011-2019 Ford F450 Superduty

- 1999-2004 Ford F550 Superduty

- 1994-1999 Dodge Ram 2500/3500 4WD

 

The Install Tools for the Upper and Lower Ball Joint are to avoid damaging the Rings when pressing the ball joints into the knuckle using a suitable Ball Joint Press. They are included with each set of 4 purchased. Pics below show how the Installation Washer is used.  These are MANDATORY to avoid damage to the ring, we will not warranty damaged rings due to not using the provided washers:

LOWER BALLJOINT INSTALLATION WASHEREMF LOWER BALLJOINT INSTALLATION WASHER

 

THESE STEPS ARE MANDATORY FOR EVERYONE TO FOLLOW.  MECHANIC OR HOME INSTALL.  FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE PROCEDURES WILL RESULT IN IMPROPER INSTALLATION AND YOUR TRUCK WILL NOT MOVE CORRECTLY.  EMF IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR IMPROPER INSTALLATION BECAUSE THE INSTRUCTIONS WEREN’T READ -  SO READ THESE PROCEDURES AND FOLLOW THEM!!!  (A COPY OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS WILL ALSO BE INCLUDED WITH YOUR BALL JOINTS)

TIGHTENING PROCEDURE – AFTER REMOVAL OF OLD BALL JOINTS

☐   After removal of old ball joints, remove wedge collar from housing.  Clean collar and housing.

☐   Clean lower housing / tapered hole of any grease and rust. DO NOT USE ABRASIVES TO CLEAN!

☐   Clean rust and dirt from knuckle.

☐   Install Ball Joints using the appropriate supplied protection washers (included – see picture above) on the face of the ball joints to prevent damage to the rings when pressing in with ball joint press. The washers are not needed after install – they can be thrown away or kept for possible future use if desired.

☐   Use Anti-Seize and cover the wedge collar (OUTSIDE OF THE COLLAR, NOT THE INSIDE).  **IMPORTANT ** MAKE SURE THE ANTI-SEIZE DOES NOT GET INTO THE TAPER

☐   Loosely place wedge collar in the housing.

☐   Slide the knuckle into place and install lower Nord-Lock locking washer and 7/8”-14 nut on lower pin.

☐   Torque Lower Nut to 150 ft. lbs

☐   Rotate Knuckle side to side and make sure it moves freely.  **IF THE KNUCKLE DOES NOT MOVE FREELY, SEE TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE BELOW**

☐   Take the NON-NYLOCK ¾”-16 Install Nut and Torque upper ball joint pin to 90 ft lbs.

☐   KNUCKLE WILL BE TIGHT.  Use a socket or pipe that will fit over the Upper Ball Joint Nut and sit flat on wedge collar.

☐   Tap Down with a hammer, Knuckle will loosen.

☐   Re-Torque Upper Ball Joint Nut to 90 ft lbs

☐   Rotate Knuckle back and forth, ensuring a smooth motion.

☐   Remove the NON-NYLOCK Install Nut with a RATCHET  ** DO NOT USE AN IMPACT OR THE PIN WILL UNSEAT FROM THE HOLE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER AGAIN **

☐   Install ¾-16 Nylock Nut on the Upper Ball Joint and torque to 110 ft lbs.

 

GREASING PROCEDURE – AFTER INSTALL OF NEW BALL JOINTS

☐   Grease the LOWER Ball Joints first until the grease gun starts to become firm.

☐   Then grease the UPPER Ball Joints until the grease gun becomes firm

☐   Grease the LOWER Ball Joints again for a couple more pumps

☐   Rotate the knuckle side to side to distribute the grease evenly throughout the ball joints.  The knuckle should go from stiff and hard to move, to easier to move side to side freely.

☐   Now you want to repeat the steps again, starting with greasing the lower ball joint first, as many pumps as you can get.  Then the upper ball joint (if you can get any more in). 

☐   Cycle the knuckle back and forth until it frees up and grease is evenly distributed within the joint.  If the knuckle feels too stiff, depress the grease fitting to relieve pressure on the joint.

☐   If everything feels good, proceed with re-assembly of the axle as per your manufacturer’s instructions.

 

TROUBLESHOOTING

☐   IF IT IS TIGHT, UNDO.  Separate knuckle from housing, remove collar from housing and start over!

☐   Make sure there is a gap between the wedge collar and the housing.

 

 

Facts about the EMF Ball Joint:

  • 3 Canadian and US Patents covering the design
  • Rebuildable so you will never have to purchase an entire unit again, you simply replace the inner race and pin and off you go. You can do this right on the truck without removing the housing from the knuckle
  • Serviceable so if you ever start to feel movement in the joint, you simply back out the set screw on the side of the cap and tighten the cap then replace the set screw. This can be done right on the truck without having to remove anything from the knuckle.
  • Greaseable so you can just pump a couple squirts of grease into it around every oil change and go
  • The entire unit is 100% Canadian Made by an Alberta Small Business. We have a strict Quality Assurance policy and each piece we make is numbered and logged with tolerances and measurements documented so if there is ever a problem we can look back on when it was manufactured and what the material specs were. 
  • EMF is the only Ball Joint with the removable race and pin (part of our patents).  Competitor products have a removable pin that can be rebuilt, however the inside of the housing will wear as the pin wears resulting in the inevitable replacement of the entire unit in the future, as the pin will no longer possess a tight fit.  By having the internal race and pin set on the EMF ball joint, the race will act as the wear point instead of the housing body creating a long lasting unit.
  • EMF’s price point is set below the competitor pricing which is very enticing to the customer. We are not only a manufacturer and business, we are also the consumer so we wanted to have something affordable and high quality available.
  • Each EMF Ball Joint unit is made from 4140 HTSR material and then sent to a metal treating facility to be Nitride Coated. Liquid Salt Bath Nitriding is a second heat treating process on the material resulting in up to a 30% strength increase as well as a beautiful black oxide corrosion resistant coating that also resists galling and does not reduce the tolerances of the pieces. 

 

EMF Ball Joint Warranty

  • Life-Time Warranty against Material and Manufacturers Defects. EMF will replace part of or the entire unit if it is determined to be an issue that falls under this category.  The customer is encouraged to contact EMF directly to determine cause of fault and to receive warrantied products.
  • Warranty does not cover breakage due to misuse of the product, improper installation or as a result of another component failure on the vehicle.
  • EMF Ball Joints are meant to be rebuilt, which means the internal races and pin will wear over time under normal circumstances. The internal race and pin components are not covered by replacement Warranty, unless it is determined there is a manufacturer defect that caused premature wear.  In order to maximize your product life, regular maintenance which includes tightening of the cap and greasing are required. 

Prop-65

https://www.p65warnings.ca.gov/

EMF Dana 60 Ball Joint Final Setting Procedure

How do I know I need Oversized or Regular Ball Joints?

If you know you haven't changed the ball joints out before, you will be just fine with the Regular Size. If you have changed them out before, but don't know which ones to order, here are a few tips.



First off... what is an Oversized Ball Joint?



It's simply a ball joint body with a large outer diameter measurement than factory made for the specific purpose of fitting in a hole that has been enlarged. It is not a heavy duty ball joint and nothing else other than the outer diameter is bigger.



The need for over sized ball joints comes only from :

1) Someone prior to you changed the ball joints and unknowingly installed over sized joints because that's what they were sold. They then struggled to press them into the axle and stretched the holes out.

2) Same as number one but a shop did it

3) Someone "usually an apprentice or DIY guy" decided to clean the hole with a flap wheel or some other abrasive and they hogged the hole out. (This is what oversized ball joints were meant to fix)

never ever

4) Someone, either a mechanic or DIY guy, pressed the ball joint in crooked with the press and just cranked it in rather than relieving it occasionally with a hammer (many mechanics seem to not like the hammer on clamp method) and chewed the side of the hole out with the ball joint body.



All reasons are because someone somewhere made a mistake. It's not because you wore the ball joints out really bad or because they've been changed a lot. However, if they have been changed a lot by someone incorrectly, then the holes can enlarge. Nothing is concrete. This is where it becomes hard to tell what you need. It's easy if the trucks never been touched.



Now for some signs of how to tell what you might need:

The easiest is obviously taking the old ball joints out and measuring them. If they came out easy, measure inside the hole in 4 places, then divide by 4 to get the average size. In the Ball Joint Descriptions on the website, there are sizes listed so you can compare to see which ones you may need. Of course, that will require some down time. If you can afford the downtime, this is the best option... but if you can't there may be a couple ways to see without taking the truck apart.
Take a look at the lower ball joint and see if there's a part number stamped into it. For example, if it says K7467 (Moog's number for 03-13 lowers) then you should choose the oversized. You may see another company part number stamped into it as well. You can always look up that brand and see if they have measurements that you can compare to ours.
Not all knurled ball joints are oversized. Some are standard sized and some are oversized. It's not a good way to identify. Knurling is simply a technique used by some manufacturers to make a random outer diameter without having to maintain a precise sizing, meaning they can fib a bit here and there and it will still press into the hole easy. The knurling flattens out when installed on cheap joints. On better quality joints they dig into the knuckle.
Oversized ball joints are a specialty item and should be marked to easily identify. They unfortunately aren't. We machine a ring around our housing to mark ours. I've noticed Moog has similar lines now. Their older ones did not. It would be nice if other companies would do the same so this wouldn't be such an issue.




Have a hole that is beyond the size of the oversized? We can custom machine one for you... we call these the "Fat Boys". For this you will need 4 measurements inside the hole of the knuckle and then divide by 4 to get the average. WE WILL NOT MAKE A CUSTOM JOINT WITHOUT PROPER MEASUREMENTS. You need to know what they are so you can get a ball joint that will fit properly. Just guessing can result in a housing being too large or too small and a waste of your time and money because they aren't returnable. Give us a call if you need a Fat Boy and we will be happy to help.

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